I know the word “masa” means dough, particularly corn dough, but it might as well be short for “miracle,” because the process of producing this staple of Mexican (and other Central and South American) ...

I know the word “masa” means dough, particularly corn dough, but it might as well be short for “miracle,” because the process of producing this staple of Mexican (and other Central and South American) ...

Simply translated, masa — the foundation for every perfect tortilla, tostada, tamale, pozole, arepa and gordita — means dough. It unites North and South America, defying any one cultural identity.

This cornerstone of Mexican cuisine infuses so many dishes with depth and verve. The chef Fermín Núñez of Suerte, in Austin, Texas, considers masa, the main ingredient in tortillas, gorditas and more, ...