Taste, smell, and spice tend to absorb the lion’s share of a restaurant critic’s attention, not to mention his adjectives. Texture often pulls the short straw. Non-western cuisines have been quicker ...

You’re reading the Food Scene newsletter, Helen Rosner’s guide to what, where, and how to eat. Sign up to receive it in your inbox. Several precious feet of space in the restaurant’s trim open kitchen ...

Bánh Anh Em, in the East Village, sizzles with scrappy, ad-hoc cooking that shows off the full fervor of the cuisine. Credit...Video by Yuvraj Khanna For The New York Times Supported by By Ligaya ...